0 Comments
And why on earth she did this complicated? Wouldn't it be just easier take all the black paind down with only using ethanol or acetone poultice? And wouldn't it be better to take down the whole paint surface in one shot?
Well the first thing to keep in mind, when removing paint with this kind of solvent, is that both ethanol and acetone are quicly evaporating solvents and thats why it is better to work a small area with them. And then there happened to be a warm weather and because of that it was also better to work small areas at the time. Otherwise my friend would have most likely ended up to make a bit of pointless job if she would have used a solvent poultice in larger area and when she would have started removing solvent softened paint, the softened paint would had dryed and hardened back in the end side of the large covered area when the solvent would had evaporated. The ethanol in the other hand didn't quite well effected the paint's bottom layer in those table side areas and the acetone would have required a longer time to effect and would have probably manage to dry on that time even if she would have done as tight poultice as possible. So with that reason also it was better to do the paint removing in two parts. At the table's deck my friend had noticed that the black paint did come off with using only ethanol. And so the paint come off from the table's deck quite nicely using only ethanol poultice, exept some small parts but with sanding those were managed to get off. Sometimes this surely is a bit of mystery industry. After when the black paint had been removed and the beautiful oak wood had been revealed under the paint and the wood surface had been sanded, it was water staining turn. My friend used dark oak and a bit (mode)brown water stain mix. Then after staining it was application of shellac turn. Shellac varnish is mixture of ethanol and a lac bug's (named Kerria lacca) feces (which turn in the resin). Ugh phyi... those restores sure do use weird substance on their works. Shellac does dry fast after the application but you must wait one hour to make second application so that the shellac surface turns out to be good. You will make those shellac application about 10 times, sometimes less and sometimes more depens on what kind of polish level you want. In this case she made the shellac application 8 times. After every few shellac layer the surface shall sanded lightly with really fine sandpaper. But oh dear what a missery happened! At the first sanding layer of shellac my friend did used a bit too rough sandpaper and that's why there came a little tiny areas on the table desk where the stain did sanded a bit away. My friend tryed first make a reapairs on those small areas but they started to bother her too much and she ended up to remove those shellac layers and stain that she already made and she made the whole staining and shellacking from the begining. Sometimes this kind of things can happen even the best of us. In the second time the shellac sandings went well and after the eight shellack layer application there was the last working stage to apply the wax to the table surface which was made with Liberon colourless antique wax. At the end of the renovation together with my friend enjoyed just being at the palcony. This was my prattles at this time. See you next time -Protoni p.s. Watch the short video about that table working process on Youtube and you can explore my friend's writings on Buy Me a Coffee.
Oh boy!
My friend is publishing her writings on Buy Me a Coffee and I did got my own monthly club in there as well. Hip Hip Hooray! In my club you can read my blog writings before others and hear some other stories inside Seepiakettu. But don't tell to my friend that I have been told those stories. You can explore my club (and possibly find my friend writings as well) by clicking the button below. -Protoni
Hello again! Today I thought to tell about work, where my friend's mostly will got a good inspiration at autumn and middle spring; candles making. She is a self studiet candle maker. There are many kind of materials to make candles. To the many stearine and paraffin wax are the most familiar. In recent years the soy wax has grown to be popular preparation candle material. There are two basic method to make candles; dipping and molding. My friend has specialiszed more on molding technique. Of course the easiest way to make your own candle is to wrap beeswax sheets around the candle wick. My friend sure does love using colors. And there is no absence of colors or shapes from her candles. There are own color pigments pellets and powders for dye candles. There are also own paints for candles. It is own kind of a effort to find the right candle wick. Even if there are some sort of introduction for what kind of thickness would suit for candle's diameter, it can happen that it is not the best one for the candle that you have made even if the diameter would be suited for that candle wick. Well, with trial and error you will find the best candle wick for each candle. Beside with the mold that you can buy from shops my friend does make experince with a mold materials that you can find from your own home. For example there are possible to use toilet- and long tissue paper tubes, empty milk can and shampoo bottles and also whole egg shell that has been removed egg white and yolk inside for a candle molds. From many baking silicone mold you can also get nice molds for your candles. Well her cake candles sure looks delicious. Fun fact that she also had applied to study confectioner but did not get in. Looking for a those cake candles that she make you could almost say that what kind of confectionet artist the world lost in her. This was my prattles at this time. See you next time -Protoni
|
AuthorThe great assistent of Seepiakettu Protoni is here to write about different working things in Seepiakettu business. Archives
December 2024
Categories
|